You might be wondering what the fuss is, but there is a certain way of shaking hands in Ghana. We made a small clip to show you. First grasp hands and shake with your right hand as standard in western countries, then...you snap your middle fingers together to make a clicking noise!
Check out the clip here.
Oh, and the noise in the background are the dozens of guinea fowls in our garden!
Showing posts with label travel tips. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travel tips. Show all posts
February 12, 2010
December 11, 2009
What Makes a Good Volunteer?
We have a new site www.g-lish.org where you can read all articles from This is Ghana in a much more organised fashion. Read What Makes a Good Volunteer? there.
Age, gender, work experience and nationality have nothing to do with how much people contribute and how well they cope when they come to volunteer in Ghana—or anywhere. I never could tell who would adapt and who would have trouble. Many times my assumptions, based on impressions I formed after the first few days together when I was a volunteer (and later managing volunteers), were proven wrong as time passed—and I was glad of this. I saw that some people take a few weeks to warm up and find their stride and I shouldn’t be too quick to judge—I was one of them. Those who you think may be difficult to work with, based on emails before they arrive, may turn out to be the most helpful, effective and fun to work with. Some begin all optimistic, but become frustrated after a week or two with the pace of things.
You never could tell and it was a valuable lesson in human nature.
What I did learn, however, was that the ones who excelled shared certain key personality or character attributes irrespective of age, gender, background and nationality.
This is a sample what we’ll share in the Insider’s Guide to Volunteering. Sign up by email if you’d like to be kept in the loop about this PDF release.
Age, gender, work experience and nationality have nothing to do with how much people contribute and how well they cope when they come to volunteer in Ghana—or anywhere. I never could tell who would adapt and who would have trouble. Many times my assumptions, based on impressions I formed after the first few days together when I was a volunteer (and later managing volunteers), were proven wrong as time passed—and I was glad of this. I saw that some people take a few weeks to warm up and find their stride and I shouldn’t be too quick to judge—I was one of them. Those who you think may be difficult to work with, based on emails before they arrive, may turn out to be the most helpful, effective and fun to work with. Some begin all optimistic, but become frustrated after a week or two with the pace of things.
You never could tell and it was a valuable lesson in human nature.
What I did learn, however, was that the ones who excelled shared certain key personality or character attributes irrespective of age, gender, background and nationality.
This is a sample what we’ll share in the Insider’s Guide to Volunteering. Sign up by email if you’d like to be kept in the loop about this PDF release.
December 3, 2009
Ghana Travel Planner: two different 10 Day Tours of Ghana
I tend to rough it as a traveler and don’t mind putting myself through hell to get where I want to go (which I didn’t know about myself until I came to Ghana), and sometimes forget that not everyone shares this inclination so I’ve written four itineraries that cater to different traveling styles and durations. The first two are based on 10 days and cover the major highlights: one easy, one more challenging. The next two (in the next post) are based on 19 days: one easy, and then the super challenging version.
You can click on all the Ghana Highlights here and check out the trips to each part of Ghana to help your plan your itinerary.
Also, read more about our Ghana Guide here at G-lish.
Itinerary 1. 10 Days Beaches and Mountains. (Does not include northern Ghana, Mole/elephants.)
Day 1-3: Accra-Cape-Accra. Beaches, crafts, and history.
Things to do in Cape:
1. Visit Cape Coast Castle (very interesting exhibit and easy to get to.) and/or Elmina Castle (Elmina Castle is the oldest European/colonial building in sub-Saharan Africa. Est 1482.)
2. Workshops. These are run by Global Mamas. Chefs love the cooking workshop and creative types love batiking (on the beach situated between Cape Coast Castle and Oasis—the no-frills outdoors bar of choice for backpackers.)
3. Hang out at Brenu Beach or Anomabu Beach, both within 30 minutes of Cape Coast.
Day 4-9: Accra-Volta-Accra. Mountains, crafts and waterfalls.
Day 4: Accra to Wli Waterfalls, to the east of Hohoe. Wli is as far north as you need to go, and then work your way back down to Accra. North to Hohoe (4 hours journey). At Hohoe change for vehicle to Wli (30 minutes). Get there by early afternoon and relax.
Day 5: If you’re feeling energetic, climb to the upper falls. If not, walk to the lower falls. Wli is a tranquil village. You can cross the border to Togo here. The border is at the end of the main road, about 5 minute’s walk from the visitor’s centre.
The next are all optional/mix and match. Stay longer if you like some place.
Day 6: Return to Hohoe by (usually very full) taxi or, indeed, any vehicle you can catch a ride with, and catch tro to Fume (1 hour south—easy journey) if you want to stay at Mt Paradise. Hop off at Fume and get a taxi up hill to Mountain Paradise (or walk: it’s a 2 hour walk up hairpin bend after hairpin bend). Do half day waterfall walks. Stay another day or
Day 7, travel to Ho on tro and visit weavers in Kpotoe, a half hour outside of Ho. It’s about 40 minutes from Fume or 1.5 hours from Hohoe. Travel on to Akosombo Bridge area the same day. Stay at Akosombo Bridge, another hour or so south of Fume or Ho, or 2.5 hours from Hohoe, on the Volta River and hang out at Aylo’s Bay great location.
Day 8: Hang out at Aylo’s. You’ll want to. Perhaps visit Cedi Beads or other beadmakers or markets around Krobo about 20-30 minutes from Akosombo.
Day 9: Back to Accra. Visit the National Museum, Kwame Nkrumah Mausoleum, and any other sites of interest.
Day 10: Sad departure day!
Itinerary 2: Challenging highlights, including Mole National Park, Cape Coast and the Volta.
Day 1-5 Accra-Mole-Cape. Wildlife and markets
The reason I put Mole first is because there is scope for a lot to go wrong and it’s better to happen early, than when you’re rushing to get a flight. If you have your own vehicle (4WD) it’s fine. If not, you have to take public transport. If you are prepared for rough and ready experience and are open to ‘the journey’, you’ll be fine. If you expect everything to run smoothly and be like a ‘safari’, it will disappoint.
Day 1: Accra—Tamale. Depart Accra by STC in the morning. About twelve/thirteen hours to Tamale. Stay overnight in Tamale. There is only one public bus to Mole from Tamale and it ‘departs’ at 2 pm everyday.
Day 2: Tamale—Mole: Hang around Tamale in the morning. Buy a ticket at the central tro station before 10 am. Depart Tamale between 2 and 6 pm. It takes four hours. So you get there anytime between 6 and 10 at night.
Day 3: Mole. Do the walking tour to find animal herds at 7 am for a couple of hours or in the afternoon, or both. The motel is on an escarpment overlooking the flat savannah where the elephants, and antelopes and other animals gather. It has a pool.
Day 4: Depart Mole. Bus departs at 4 a.m. Arrive at Tamale around 8 am.
Your options of going south on the STC from Tamale are: On Tuesday the service departs at 8 a.m. for Cape Coast and on Saturdays at 3 p.m. It departs to Kumasi at 7 a.m. daily, but 11 a.m. on Sundays. It departs to Accra daily at 6.30 a.m. or 4 p.m., including Sundays. Unfortunately, none of those connect with the arriving bus from Mole which usually gets in around 8 a.m., provided you don’t break down. That’s usually too late to buy a ticket south unless the service is late, which the STC often is. The Metro Mass orange buses, quite a decent option (better than tros) leave Tamale daily at Tros leave the same station that the Mole Bus arrives at regularly throughout the day to Kumasi. It will take you about 6-7 hours to get there. Say you get in around 4 p.m. You can then jump on a tro to Cape which will get you in around 8 or 9 p.m. that night (I did this very journey).
You might not think that journey is worth the hassle to see elephants. Or, if you have the extra cash, it’s worth hiring a tour company to drive you around instead, which would cut 2 days off the trip north or give you 2 more days to see other things like Hand in Hand near Techiman or to go up to Bolgatanga.
Day 5-6 Cape—Accra. History, crafts, beaches.
Day 5: Recover in the morning by the beach outside Oasis in Cape Coast and then tour the castle, about 50 metres up the road. You could fit in a workshop at EliEmma’s batiking in the afternoon, between the Castle and Oasis.
Day 6-9: Accra—Volta. Mountains and waterfalls.
Day 6: Return to Accra from Cape. There are numerous vehicles for this. Catch tro same day from Tudu station, about a 4 Cedi dropping taxi from Kaneshie. Many vehicles leave Tudu to Hohoe in the afternoon. Arrive in Hohoe in late afternoon and tro straight to Wli or stay overnight in Hohoe.
Day 7: In Wli (or head to Wli—30 minutes) and climb the waterfalls. Hang out at Waterfall Lodge.
Day 8: Take a well deserved rest in Wli or add on any of the stops in the itinerary above for the Volta region: Mountain Paradise, Ho and Kpotoe, Akosombo, Beads
Day 9: Same as for day 8 and return to Accra.
Day 10: Sight-see around Accra.
You can click on all the Ghana Highlights here and check out the trips to each part of Ghana to help your plan your itinerary.
Also, read more about our Ghana Guide here at G-lish.
Itinerary 1. 10 Days Beaches and Mountains. (Does not include northern Ghana, Mole/elephants.)
Day 1-3: Accra-Cape-Accra. Beaches, crafts, and history.
Things to do in Cape:
Old pirogues along the beach on the Eastern side of Elmina Castle.
1. Visit Cape Coast Castle (very interesting exhibit and easy to get to.) and/or Elmina Castle (Elmina Castle is the oldest European/colonial building in sub-Saharan Africa. Est 1482.)
Emma, one of the batikers outside her workshop. That's Cape Coast Castle up the road in the background.
2. Workshops. These are run by Global Mamas. Chefs love the cooking workshop and creative types love batiking (on the beach situated between Cape Coast Castle and Oasis—the no-frills outdoors bar of choice for backpackers.)
3. Hang out at Brenu Beach or Anomabu Beach, both within 30 minutes of Cape Coast.
Day 4-9: Accra-Volta-Accra. Mountains, crafts and waterfalls.
Day 4: Accra to Wli Waterfalls, to the east of Hohoe. Wli is as far north as you need to go, and then work your way back down to Accra. North to Hohoe (4 hours journey). At Hohoe change for vehicle to Wli (30 minutes). Get there by early afternoon and relax.
Day 5: If you’re feeling energetic, climb to the upper falls. If not, walk to the lower falls. Wli is a tranquil village. You can cross the border to Togo here. The border is at the end of the main road, about 5 minute’s walk from the visitor’s centre.
Friends at lower falls at Wli
The next are all optional/mix and match. Stay longer if you like some place.
Day 6: Return to Hohoe by (usually very full) taxi or, indeed, any vehicle you can catch a ride with, and catch tro to Fume (1 hour south—easy journey) if you want to stay at Mt Paradise. Hop off at Fume and get a taxi up hill to Mountain Paradise (or walk: it’s a 2 hour walk up hairpin bend after hairpin bend). Do half day waterfall walks. Stay another day or
Day 7, travel to Ho on tro and visit weavers in Kpotoe, a half hour outside of Ho. It’s about 40 minutes from Fume or 1.5 hours from Hohoe. Travel on to Akosombo Bridge area the same day. Stay at Akosombo Bridge, another hour or so south of Fume or Ho, or 2.5 hours from Hohoe, on the Volta River and hang out at Aylo’s Bay great location.
Day 8: Hang out at Aylo’s. You’ll want to. Perhaps visit Cedi Beads or other beadmakers or markets around Krobo about 20-30 minutes from Akosombo.
Day 9: Back to Accra. Visit the National Museum, Kwame Nkrumah Mausoleum, and any other sites of interest.
Day 10: Sad departure day!
Itinerary 2: Challenging highlights, including Mole National Park, Cape Coast and the Volta.
Day 1-5 Accra-Mole-Cape. Wildlife and markets
The reason I put Mole first is because there is scope for a lot to go wrong and it’s better to happen early, than when you’re rushing to get a flight. If you have your own vehicle (4WD) it’s fine. If not, you have to take public transport. If you are prepared for rough and ready experience and are open to ‘the journey’, you’ll be fine. If you expect everything to run smoothly and be like a ‘safari’, it will disappoint.
Day 1: Accra—Tamale. Depart Accra by STC in the morning. About twelve/thirteen hours to Tamale. Stay overnight in Tamale. There is only one public bus to Mole from Tamale and it ‘departs’ at 2 pm everyday.
Day 2: Tamale—Mole: Hang around Tamale in the morning. Buy a ticket at the central tro station before 10 am. Depart Tamale between 2 and 6 pm. It takes four hours. So you get there anytime between 6 and 10 at night.
Elephant crossing the road at Mole
Day 3: Mole. Do the walking tour to find animal herds at 7 am for a couple of hours or in the afternoon, or both. The motel is on an escarpment overlooking the flat savannah where the elephants, and antelopes and other animals gather. It has a pool.
Day 4: Depart Mole. Bus departs at 4 a.m. Arrive at Tamale around 8 am.
Your options of going south on the STC from Tamale are: On Tuesday the service departs at 8 a.m. for Cape Coast and on Saturdays at 3 p.m. It departs to Kumasi at 7 a.m. daily, but 11 a.m. on Sundays. It departs to Accra daily at 6.30 a.m. or 4 p.m., including Sundays. Unfortunately, none of those connect with the arriving bus from Mole which usually gets in around 8 a.m., provided you don’t break down. That’s usually too late to buy a ticket south unless the service is late, which the STC often is. The Metro Mass orange buses, quite a decent option (better than tros) leave Tamale daily at Tros leave the same station that the Mole Bus arrives at regularly throughout the day to Kumasi. It will take you about 6-7 hours to get there. Say you get in around 4 p.m. You can then jump on a tro to Cape which will get you in around 8 or 9 p.m. that night (I did this very journey).
You might not think that journey is worth the hassle to see elephants. Or, if you have the extra cash, it’s worth hiring a tour company to drive you around instead, which would cut 2 days off the trip north or give you 2 more days to see other things like Hand in Hand near Techiman or to go up to Bolgatanga.
Day 5-6 Cape—Accra. History, crafts, beaches.
Day 5: Recover in the morning by the beach outside Oasis in Cape Coast and then tour the castle, about 50 metres up the road. You could fit in a workshop at EliEmma’s batiking in the afternoon, between the Castle and Oasis.
Day 6-9: Accra—Volta. Mountains and waterfalls.
Day 6: Return to Accra from Cape. There are numerous vehicles for this. Catch tro same day from Tudu station, about a 4 Cedi dropping taxi from Kaneshie. Many vehicles leave Tudu to Hohoe in the afternoon. Arrive in Hohoe in late afternoon and tro straight to Wli or stay overnight in Hohoe.
Day 7: In Wli (or head to Wli—30 minutes) and climb the waterfalls. Hang out at Waterfall Lodge.
Day 8: Take a well deserved rest in Wli or add on any of the stops in the itinerary above for the Volta region: Mountain Paradise, Ho and Kpotoe, Akosombo, Beads
Day 9: Same as for day 8 and return to Accra.
Day 10: Sight-see around Accra.
October 29, 2009
How dangerous is travel in Ghana?
This is my take on them, and please feel free to add your own stories or tips in the comments below:
1. Health—Mosquitoes: Malaria. I wrote a post about how it feels here. The bad news: it is ‘as common as catching a cold.’ The good news: it’s easy to do something about.
The standard rule is to take antimalarials for one month before arrival so your system can develop resistance, and one month after leaving. The month after leaving rule is to kill parasitic cycles that could develop into malaria over time, later.
One time, a volunteer friend was experiencing spontaneous sweats, fever, vomiting, tiredness, and diarrhea, so we were tested for malaria; her test was negative. The following day she was ill again so we visited a different clinic. She had a seizure during the consultation. She had severe malaria. So much for the test.
So, the moral is: a negative blood test may be wrong; it doesn’t guarantee you are malaria-free. If you are presenting the clinical symptoms, you should seek treatment. You can go to a hospital or clinic. They’ll test you. Even if negative.
Roughly speaking, about 1 in 5 volunteers I worked with got malaria. Some never got it, others, like me, got it regularly. We took the various brands: Doxy, Larium, and so on. None of them are perfect. We sprayed ourselves at night and slept under nets, but it only takes one bite. The good news, as I said, is that it’s easy to cure provided you do something about it when you notice the symptoms. Don’t worry, don’t freak out or panic, just act. If you wish to see a doctor, fine. It’s not a bad idea to keep a written record of medical visits.
Regarding general health and travel, see your travel doctor at least a month, preferably longer, before coming to Ghana and follow their advice on general and Africa-specific vaccinations (there is no malaria vaccine), and which antimalarial drugs would be best. For the record, it’s much cheaper to buy them here than it is in developed countries. I can buy a sheet of 10 doxy for one dollar. You might want to check the Centre for Disease Control’s latest updates for Ghana here to learn about malaria in detail and other mosquito-borne diseases and health issues in Ghana:
I’m looking forward to the day when a mosquito bite simply means an itchy bite.
Vehicles: Most nights I say a prayer of thanks for good health, friends and family, and that I haven’t been mangled in a horrible road accident. Indeed, I don’t practice any one religion, but the roads in Ghana have turned me into a practicing prayer. And I’m not picky about which God hears my trotro prayers. I had so many close-calls and passed so many serious accidents that I updated my will—that’s how bad it is. The Vice President, John Mahama, was on GTV yesterday morning at a community where a terrible dirt road was about to be paved. He said that the rutted road forces vehicles to drive at 20-30 km/hour and there has not been a single road accident there. But he lamented that once it’s tarred drivers will speed and he fears the ‘carnage’ that will occur. It was quite candid of him, and it gives you a sense of the gravity of the situation.
The Bad news: Taxis, trotros and buses are virtually unavoidable. The good news: There isn’t much good news on this one. I’m sorry. Drivers bribe officials to get licenced without sitting for a driving test and until that situation is brought under control, I can’t see it improving.
A few months ago on my trip to Accra, the STC (which I took because it gives the impression of being safe) driver fell asleep at the wheel and veered so close to an oncoming semi-trailer that the side mirror smashed off. On the way back from Accra, the STC driver over took on a blind rise over solid double lines into a row of oncoming cars and trucks that were forced to shift to the far right to make space for us on the wrong side of the road. I think most travelers in Ghana would attest that this standard of driving is quite normal. I have countless similar stories, mostly involving trotros, blind corners or hills, oncoming vehicles, rain, and high speeds.
Highway robbery along remote roads is becoming more common. I have not heard of physical threats occurring during the highway robberies, but I’d like to know if anyone has. It seems that as long as you hand your stuff over, you are not harmed. Don’t carry anything you don’t mind losing on trotro journeys.
If a driver is being careless, chances are Ghanaians will shout at them. Don’t be afraid to shout yourself. If worst comes to worst, you can always get off. I learnt to say ‘slow down’ in Twi and it works. Life seems cheap on Ghana’s roads, so if you value yours, speak up.
Crowd situations: Pick pocketing and stampeding are problems. There have been a few stampedes at football games over the years that resulted in many deaths. Please be careful if you’re attending a game or any event in large crowds like a concert where everyone might suddenly push to get in or out.
Pick-pockets are rife in crowded areas. I’ve seen it and heard about it. I kicked guys off me one day in a crowd and saw others do it plenty of times too. One sneaky thing thieves do is slash your bag straps or the underneath of your bag, so hold your bag tightly in crowds.
The ocean current and surf: While waves on Busua, Axim and a few other beaches I visited are much smaller, they are wildly unpredictable. You might pop up after ducking under a wave to find another one hitting you side on and pulling your legs in the opposite direction. You have to keep moving around to stay in a safe zone. The undertow and rips are fierce.
My friend, a strong swimmer, got caught in one rip, and struggled to get out of it. It seemed to shift and suddenly I was caught in it and I really struggled for 10 mins until I made it to the shore.
General places to avoid:
Kokrobite Beach is notorious for daylight and especially night time robberies. A bunch of small boys will surround you, pull a knife and demand your back pack. Even male acquaintances were robbed this way.
University: Like most campuses world-wide, don’t roam around at night unless you’re in a large group, definitely not alone or with just one other person.
Accra
Nima/Mamobey area at night. Be alert during the day. Pig Farm (yes, it’s a name) at night. Ashaiman at night. Kwame Nkrumah Circle area and Kaneshie by day and night for bag and phone snatching; don’t be alarmed, but don’t let anyone carry your bags and hold on tight. Osu main street at night.
Kumasi
Racecourse area at night. Kejetia trotro station and market area at night for bag and phone snatching and occasionally people physically trying to stop you. Just push them away and keep walking. Shout if you have to. I never had a problem there, but keep your wits about you.
Cape Coast
Along the beaches at night—just don’t do it unless you’re with body guards (not the guys who like to sweet talk girls at Oasis or any of those who approach travelers on the street. It’s a notorious area for robberies).
Around the Castles—the area and beaches around there are known for petty robberies.
Outside Oasis and the back roads that lead from Oasis to the town centre at night. Stick to Commercial Road: the long road that extends from the Castle past the crab and up to the market, but be careful around the Castle/Restaurant area at night.
Around the crab at night and Hacienda. You can have fun, but take care.
Kotakoraba taxi station at night—not too bad, but be careful.
Elmina:
Shell Elmina during festivals when all the young boys in the area converge to dance.
The SSNIT building past Shell on the right side of the highway at night is not a safe area. Elmina Castle area at night.
I have only been robbed twice in Ghana. My phone was pick-pocketed because I left it in an outer backpack pocket in Kaneshie. And I was robbed by three men when I least suspected it—in broad daylight in a taxi one morning heading to work along the highway from Elmina to Cape. In retrospect it was a set up, but I’d never experienced such a thing. I got mad, shouted a lot, hit them over the head (lame but it worked) and got my stuff back. It was a surreal experience (and another exciting chapter for the book). But I was lucky; try not to be in that situation in the first place.
The point is, if you don’t see a weapon, or you’re not physically threatened, don’t be afraid to fight back and shout and make a lot of noise. If other people are around, there’s a good chance they’ll come to your aid. Ghanaians detest thieves and people who break into other’s homes, uninvited, in particular.
Upper East and West
Comparatively, the Upper East and West Regions are less touristed and the hassle factor is virtually zero in towns compared with, say, Kumasi or Accra. However, you should keep your wits about you at night and traveling in remote areas.
Bawku:
It is a conflict zone and you enter Bawku at your own risk. However, the conflict occurs in bouts, weeks, sometimes months apart. Most times, if you’re just passing through you wouldn’t know there was a conflict. There is a heavy police and military presence if something should happen.
Between Mole and Larabanga:
It says so in the guide book and for a reason. That little stretch of road is a playground for thieves. Avoid it.
While all this may be scary, I’ve felt safer here than many other places in the world. Most Ghanaians hardly drink alcohol or smoke so alcohol fueled violence is barely an issue. Truly ugly, violent crime is far less common than in many capital cities in developed countries.
If you want to read more about health issues, I recommend the Travel Doctor in the UK for information.
The photo is licenced as free to use from Flickr.
1. Health—Mosquitoes: Malaria. I wrote a post about how it feels here. The bad news: it is ‘as common as catching a cold.’ The good news: it’s easy to do something about.
The standard rule is to take antimalarials for one month before arrival so your system can develop resistance, and one month after leaving. The month after leaving rule is to kill parasitic cycles that could develop into malaria over time, later.
One time, a volunteer friend was experiencing spontaneous sweats, fever, vomiting, tiredness, and diarrhea, so we were tested for malaria; her test was negative. The following day she was ill again so we visited a different clinic. She had a seizure during the consultation. She had severe malaria. So much for the test.
So, the moral is: a negative blood test may be wrong; it doesn’t guarantee you are malaria-free. If you are presenting the clinical symptoms, you should seek treatment. You can go to a hospital or clinic. They’ll test you. Even if negative.
Roughly speaking, about 1 in 5 volunteers I worked with got malaria. Some never got it, others, like me, got it regularly. We took the various brands: Doxy, Larium, and so on. None of them are perfect. We sprayed ourselves at night and slept under nets, but it only takes one bite. The good news, as I said, is that it’s easy to cure provided you do something about it when you notice the symptoms. Don’t worry, don’t freak out or panic, just act. If you wish to see a doctor, fine. It’s not a bad idea to keep a written record of medical visits.
Regarding general health and travel, see your travel doctor at least a month, preferably longer, before coming to Ghana and follow their advice on general and Africa-specific vaccinations (there is no malaria vaccine), and which antimalarial drugs would be best. For the record, it’s much cheaper to buy them here than it is in developed countries. I can buy a sheet of 10 doxy for one dollar. You might want to check the Centre for Disease Control’s latest updates for Ghana here to learn about malaria in detail and other mosquito-borne diseases and health issues in Ghana:
I’m looking forward to the day when a mosquito bite simply means an itchy bite.
Vehicles: Most nights I say a prayer of thanks for good health, friends and family, and that I haven’t been mangled in a horrible road accident. Indeed, I don’t practice any one religion, but the roads in Ghana have turned me into a practicing prayer. And I’m not picky about which God hears my trotro prayers. I had so many close-calls and passed so many serious accidents that I updated my will—that’s how bad it is. The Vice President, John Mahama, was on GTV yesterday morning at a community where a terrible dirt road was about to be paved. He said that the rutted road forces vehicles to drive at 20-30 km/hour and there has not been a single road accident there. But he lamented that once it’s tarred drivers will speed and he fears the ‘carnage’ that will occur. It was quite candid of him, and it gives you a sense of the gravity of the situation.
The Bad news: Taxis, trotros and buses are virtually unavoidable. The good news: There isn’t much good news on this one. I’m sorry. Drivers bribe officials to get licenced without sitting for a driving test and until that situation is brought under control, I can’t see it improving.
A few months ago on my trip to Accra, the STC (which I took because it gives the impression of being safe) driver fell asleep at the wheel and veered so close to an oncoming semi-trailer that the side mirror smashed off. On the way back from Accra, the STC driver over took on a blind rise over solid double lines into a row of oncoming cars and trucks that were forced to shift to the far right to make space for us on the wrong side of the road. I think most travelers in Ghana would attest that this standard of driving is quite normal. I have countless similar stories, mostly involving trotros, blind corners or hills, oncoming vehicles, rain, and high speeds.
Highway robbery along remote roads is becoming more common. I have not heard of physical threats occurring during the highway robberies, but I’d like to know if anyone has. It seems that as long as you hand your stuff over, you are not harmed. Don’t carry anything you don’t mind losing on trotro journeys.
If a driver is being careless, chances are Ghanaians will shout at them. Don’t be afraid to shout yourself. If worst comes to worst, you can always get off. I learnt to say ‘slow down’ in Twi and it works. Life seems cheap on Ghana’s roads, so if you value yours, speak up.
Crowd situations: Pick pocketing and stampeding are problems. There have been a few stampedes at football games over the years that resulted in many deaths. Please be careful if you’re attending a game or any event in large crowds like a concert where everyone might suddenly push to get in or out.
Pick-pockets are rife in crowded areas. I’ve seen it and heard about it. I kicked guys off me one day in a crowd and saw others do it plenty of times too. One sneaky thing thieves do is slash your bag straps or the underneath of your bag, so hold your bag tightly in crowds.
The ocean current and surf: While waves on Busua, Axim and a few other beaches I visited are much smaller, they are wildly unpredictable. You might pop up after ducking under a wave to find another one hitting you side on and pulling your legs in the opposite direction. You have to keep moving around to stay in a safe zone. The undertow and rips are fierce.
My friend, a strong swimmer, got caught in one rip, and struggled to get out of it. It seemed to shift and suddenly I was caught in it and I really struggled for 10 mins until I made it to the shore.
General places to avoid:
Kokrobite Beach is notorious for daylight and especially night time robberies. A bunch of small boys will surround you, pull a knife and demand your back pack. Even male acquaintances were robbed this way.
University: Like most campuses world-wide, don’t roam around at night unless you’re in a large group, definitely not alone or with just one other person.
Accra
Nima/Mamobey area at night. Be alert during the day. Pig Farm (yes, it’s a name) at night. Ashaiman at night. Kwame Nkrumah Circle area and Kaneshie by day and night for bag and phone snatching; don’t be alarmed, but don’t let anyone carry your bags and hold on tight. Osu main street at night.
Kumasi
Racecourse area at night. Kejetia trotro station and market area at night for bag and phone snatching and occasionally people physically trying to stop you. Just push them away and keep walking. Shout if you have to. I never had a problem there, but keep your wits about you.
Cape Coast
Along the beaches at night—just don’t do it unless you’re with body guards (not the guys who like to sweet talk girls at Oasis or any of those who approach travelers on the street. It’s a notorious area for robberies).
Around the Castles—the area and beaches around there are known for petty robberies.
Outside Oasis and the back roads that lead from Oasis to the town centre at night. Stick to Commercial Road: the long road that extends from the Castle past the crab and up to the market, but be careful around the Castle/Restaurant area at night.
Around the crab at night and Hacienda. You can have fun, but take care.
Kotakoraba taxi station at night—not too bad, but be careful.
Elmina:
Shell Elmina during festivals when all the young boys in the area converge to dance.
The SSNIT building past Shell on the right side of the highway at night is not a safe area. Elmina Castle area at night.
I have only been robbed twice in Ghana. My phone was pick-pocketed because I left it in an outer backpack pocket in Kaneshie. And I was robbed by three men when I least suspected it—in broad daylight in a taxi one morning heading to work along the highway from Elmina to Cape. In retrospect it was a set up, but I’d never experienced such a thing. I got mad, shouted a lot, hit them over the head (lame but it worked) and got my stuff back. It was a surreal experience (and another exciting chapter for the book). But I was lucky; try not to be in that situation in the first place.
The point is, if you don’t see a weapon, or you’re not physically threatened, don’t be afraid to fight back and shout and make a lot of noise. If other people are around, there’s a good chance they’ll come to your aid. Ghanaians detest thieves and people who break into other’s homes, uninvited, in particular.
Upper East and West
Comparatively, the Upper East and West Regions are less touristed and the hassle factor is virtually zero in towns compared with, say, Kumasi or Accra. However, you should keep your wits about you at night and traveling in remote areas.
Bawku:
It is a conflict zone and you enter Bawku at your own risk. However, the conflict occurs in bouts, weeks, sometimes months apart. Most times, if you’re just passing through you wouldn’t know there was a conflict. There is a heavy police and military presence if something should happen.
Between Mole and Larabanga:
It says so in the guide book and for a reason. That little stretch of road is a playground for thieves. Avoid it.
While all this may be scary, I’ve felt safer here than many other places in the world. Most Ghanaians hardly drink alcohol or smoke so alcohol fueled violence is barely an issue. Truly ugly, violent crime is far less common than in many capital cities in developed countries.
If you want to read more about health issues, I recommend the Travel Doctor in the UK for information.
The photo is licenced as free to use from Flickr.
May 8, 2009
Cost of living and travel in numbers
We have a new site www.g-lish.org where you can read all articles from This is Ghana in a much more organised fashion. Read Cost of living and travel in numbers there.
The exchange rate is approximately 1 Ghana Cedi = US$0.55. 100 Pesewas = 1 Ghana Cedi. (Like cents to the dollar...took me a while to work that one out.) US$1 = about 1.15-20 Cedis. It is fluctuating a lot at the moment so double check when you have to do the sums
375 ml bottle of Coke/Fanta/Sprite 40-45 pesewas
500 ml sachet of water 5 pesewas
500 ml bottle of water 50 pesewas
Bottle of Star or other local beers 1-1.20 Cedis
bowl of rice, egg, beans and stew on the street: 50 pesewas-1 Cedi
1 Grilled plantain on street 20 pesewas
1 bowl of fufu on street with some kind of meat 1 Cedi
Chicken and fried rice in "chop" bar 3-5 Cedis
Pizza in Accra or major city 10 Cedis
Cup of coffee at cafe in Accra 3 Cedis
Small tin of milk 90 pesewas
Packet of Lipton tea (about 20 bags) 1 Cedi
Small tin of Nescafe 1 Cedi (if you like real coffee you must buy it in Accra Mall 4-8 Cedis)
Packet of spaghetti 60 pesewas
Cup of rice 50 pesewas--depending on type of rice
You can buy all sorts of western products at petrol/gas stations all over Ghana, including toiletries, drinks and chocolate.
Share taxi between towns in most parts of Ghana 40-80 pesewas
Charter taxi across Accra from, say, airport to Kaneshie 4-5 Cedis (but not in an official airport taxi, you have to walk down to the road and haggle).
Official airport taxis cost about 8-10 Cedis at least, anywhere (I always walked to the street and haggled). Never ever pay more than 10.
Cheap backpacker room 5-10 Cedis
Mid-range room 10-30 Cedis
Expensive 40 Cedis plus
Visit to the local doctor 2-5 Cedis
Blood test 2-5 Cedis
Visit to well-known clinics in Accra 10-30 Cedis
Packet of doxycycline (anti malarials) that you can buy over the counter in any pharmacy in Ghana: 1 Cedi for about 10 tabs.
You might also want to read 15 Facts About Ghana in which I comment about the old currency and how it is still quoted by most street sellers.
The exchange rate is approximately 1 Ghana Cedi = US$0.55. 100 Pesewas = 1 Ghana Cedi. (Like cents to the dollar...took me a while to work that one out.) US$1 = about 1.15-20 Cedis. It is fluctuating a lot at the moment so double check when you have to do the sums
375 ml bottle of Coke/Fanta/Sprite 40-45 pesewas
500 ml sachet of water 5 pesewas
500 ml bottle of water 50 pesewas
Bottle of Star or other local beers 1-1.20 Cedis
bowl of rice, egg, beans and stew on the street: 50 pesewas-1 Cedi
1 Grilled plantain on street 20 pesewas
1 bowl of fufu on street with some kind of meat 1 Cedi
Chicken and fried rice in "chop" bar 3-5 Cedis
Pizza in Accra or major city 10 Cedis
Cup of coffee at cafe in Accra 3 Cedis
Small tin of milk 90 pesewas
Packet of Lipton tea (about 20 bags) 1 Cedi
Small tin of Nescafe 1 Cedi (if you like real coffee you must buy it in Accra Mall 4-8 Cedis)
Packet of spaghetti 60 pesewas
Cup of rice 50 pesewas--depending on type of rice
You can buy all sorts of western products at petrol/gas stations all over Ghana, including toiletries, drinks and chocolate.
Share taxi between towns in most parts of Ghana 40-80 pesewas
Charter taxi across Accra from, say, airport to Kaneshie 4-5 Cedis (but not in an official airport taxi, you have to walk down to the road and haggle).
Official airport taxis cost about 8-10 Cedis at least, anywhere (I always walked to the street and haggled). Never ever pay more than 10.
Cheap backpacker room 5-10 Cedis
Mid-range room 10-30 Cedis
Expensive 40 Cedis plus
Visit to the local doctor 2-5 Cedis
Blood test 2-5 Cedis
Visit to well-known clinics in Accra 10-30 Cedis
Packet of doxycycline (anti malarials) that you can buy over the counter in any pharmacy in Ghana: 1 Cedi for about 10 tabs.
You might also want to read 15 Facts About Ghana in which I comment about the old currency and how it is still quoted by most street sellers.
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