November 1, 2017

Online Resources for Visiting Ghana

A couple of excellent online forums to find out about travel in Ghana, or life in Ghana, are:

Internations.org

Internations works on trust and they verify your credentials before being allowed to access the site fully. You can meet plenty of expats and get up-to-date details about living in Ghana, particularly Accra. They have an active expat community that attends regular meet-ups too. A good way to meet people when you first arrive in Ghana.
"InterNations is a community of trust and confidence, present in 230 cities worldwide. Data security and privacy are of major importance. Therefore membership is invitation-only:
You need to be invited to become a member"
and Lonely Planet's "Thorntree" forum.
This is geared towards short-term travelers and is essentially a place to find the most difficult to get information that may not be available anywhere else online. Many current and former travelers lurk around the forums and are ready to offer advice and answer questions from fellow travelers. When visiting Italy I developed my entire itinerary around the feedback on the forums. It was brilliant. I've read loads relating to Ghana there and the advice is helpful and mostly accurate.

This image was taken at Axim Beach Hotel, Axim, one of the best beaches and hotels in Ghana--with prices for all budgets. 

Ghana Currency Explained

If you're traveling in Ghana, this will help prevent serious nervous breakdown as you straddle the old and new Ghana Cedi divide still alive at street-side vendors and markets across Ghana.

One new Ghana Cedi is equivalent to ten thousand old Ghana Cedis. So, 1=10,000. And just as 100 cents makes one dollar, 100 pesewas makes one new Ghana Cedi.

However, prior to July 2007, pesewas were not in circulation. Any value less than 10,000 Cedis (1 new Ghana Cedi) was expressed in “thousands” of Cedis.

Today’s 10 pesewas was 1000 Ghana Cedis and 'thousand' is still quoted on the streets for items of this value, such as sachets of purified water sold in plastic bags. It is quite common to hear items still quoted as 'five thousand' instead of today’s 50 pesewas, or 'ten thousand' instead of today’s 1 new Ghana Cedi"

Image from Wikipedia.

June 13, 2017

Coastal Highlights Tour of Ghana

Coastal Highlights Tour of Ghana


Minimum 9 days


Continuing on the Ghana tour theme (we did the All Over Ghana 21 day tour and 7 Day Essential Ghana tours already), this next tour of Ghana is what could be called “Coastal Highlights” of Ghana. If you want to feel the crunch of sand between your toes for 9 days, then this is the tour for you.


This is the tour that takes you west from Accra to Cape Coast, then past the best beaches in the Central and Western Regions, and then back to Accra again. You can mix and match this tour with any of the other Ghana tours mentioned. 

If you just want to chill on beaches, then this is it.

Accra— Cape Coast (Central Region)—Elmina—Kosa/Brenu—Green Turtle/Busua/Butre—Axim—Nzulezo/Beyin—Accra


1. Drive west from Accra to Cape Coast which takes about 3 hours, depending on traffic.


2. Hang out in Cape Coast for a day and visit the Cape Coast Castle.


3. Head on to Elmina where you can visit Elmina Castle or tour around town, and then onto either Brenu Beach or Ko-sa Beach Resort, situated off the same junction, 20 minutes past Elmina.


4. From there, head on past Takoradi to Agona Junction, and then decide whether you want Green Turtle Beach Resort (eco), Busua Beach (variety of lodges including Alaska for backpackers and African Rainbow—classy) or Butre Beach (Ellis Hideout).


5. From here, head on to Axim Beach Hotel, in Axim. There you can laze on one of Ghana’s most beautiful beaches and enjoy the truly stunning atmosphere and perhaps walk into town and visit Fort San Antonio.


6. Head to Nzulezo Stilt Village, the village in the Amansuri wetlands, accessible only by canoe, about an hour from Axim. You can even stay at Beyin Beach Resort, a grass-roots eco-lodge right by Nzulezo stilt village.


7. If that’s too exhausting, just stay put at your favourite beach for a week!


This tour of Ghana was based on one of the maps in our Ghana guide which shows this route around Ghana.

Let us know if you have any experience traveling these routes and what you’d suggest others to look out for.


Thanks for reading!

June 11, 2017

Essential Ghana Tour: 7 Days

If you only have seven days in Ghana, this will cover the essentials.

Where does this Ghana adventure take you?

AccraCape Coast (Central Region)—Kumasi (Ashanti Region)—Lake Bosumtwi (Ashanti Region)—Accra

This is basically a circuit that can be traveled in either direction. The trip to Lake Bosumtwi is optional, time allowing.

  1. Depart Accra and head to Cape Coast, about 3 hours by public transport, depending on traffic. Enjoy Cape Coast for a couple of days. See Cape Coast Castle, take a tour of town, visit other historical monuments, travel to Elmina. Elmina is about 20 minutes from Cape Coast (15 kilometres), west. Visitors are divided about the Castle visits. My preference is Elmina, but Cape Coast Castle has an excellent exhibit.

  1. Travel from Cape Coast to Kumasi. This takes about 3-4 hours on public transport, depending on the traffic. Kumasi is crazy so be prepared. Crazy, chaotic, hectic, dirty. However, there is a lot to see, particularly from an Ashanti history point of view. Visit the Cultural Centre and the museum there, hang out in the sprawling grounds. Perhaps visit the Kejetia Market in the centre of town for a truly shocking market experience.

  1. Travel to Lake Bosumtwi for a day or overnight. It is the other extreme of Kumasi: tranquil, clean and relaxing. Walk around Lake Bosumtwi or paddle on the lake. It’s definitely worth the one hour trip to the lake if time permits.

  1. Travel from Kumasi to Accra. It takes about 4-6 hours depending on the traffic.

This tour of Ghana was based on one of the maps in our Ghana guide which shows this route around Ghana.
Let us know if you have any experience traveling these routes and what you’d suggest others to look out for.

Thanks for reading!

May 3, 2017

Fufu for Beginners

Fufu transcends regional boundaries in Ghana. Fufu consists of a sticky ball of pounded vegetables in a bowl of one of three main soups.

In the south of Ghana, the fufu tends to be made from boiled and pounded cassava and plantain, whereas in Tamale and further north, fufu is made from pounded yam*. 

After boiling, the vegetables are pounded in a large wooden mortar with a four foot long wooden pole as a pestle. One or two people hold the pole and pound, while one person sits by the bowl and turns the sticky ball. It's a somewhat dangerous and highly skilled ritual that takes place every day across Ghana.

Check out this  YouTube video to learn about pounding fufu in Ghana. 

Would you be brave enough to flip the fufu in the bowl with your hand?


* Unlike the small, orange or purplish vegetable known by most North Americans as yam, Ghanaian yams are white on the inside and brown and woody on the outside. They are approximately 16 to 20 inches long and weigh more than three pounds, on average."

April 17, 2017

Location Independent: Live and Work Anywhere You Choose

I wrote a story for a blog which doesn't exist anymore, 7 years ago, on living in Ghana.


Here is an excerpt: 
Looking at your blog, it sounds like location independence in Ghana can be somewhat challenging! How do you overcome some of these challenges? What kind of impact does it have on your life and your business?
It depends where you live in Ghana. If you’re in Accra or Kumasi, the largest cities, you have access to more reliable internet and amenities, although they do experience water and power shortages at times.

But I live in the far north where sometimes you feel like the service providers have forgotten you exist. We had terrible internet between January and March this year, such that I had to travel to other cities to do serious online work. Basically, everything slows down.

What I could normally achieve in 5 days might take 10 due to external variables like not having power or internet connectivity when you need them. I’m quite efficient and productive with consistent power and internet, so I find it quite frustrating that my output is sometimes half what it could be.

Sometimes I’m tempted to move to Accra, but we’ve committed to a project here; it’s the poorest area of the country and needs the most help and we’re in a perfect position to do that.

Read more about our project at http://glishfoundation.org

Image by zug55 is of Cape Coast Castle, looking east! I used to work a few minutes walk from there...aaah!

January 4, 2017

Testimonials: Insider's Guide to Ghana

Here are some testimonials from readers of our Ghana travel guide: Insider's Guide to Ghana, in case you're wondering if it's any good or not.

Your guide has been a great help finding my way around the country so far. I love the little details that you write about, I recognise so much of it when I'm out and about! I have been recommending it to my friends here, and I have been hearing good things from them also. Really, I consider it a must-have if you really want to get to know Ghana in a fun and easy way!
CĂ©line, the Netherlands Wed, Jun 2, 2010 

Preparing for my first visit to Ghana, I found the Insider's Guide very useful and I kept it with me during my visit. It helped me to have a wonderful time and since I came back I have recommended it to several friends. i hope to be returning to Ghana in November and will certainly be taking it with me.
Peter Halliday from the UK. Sat, May 29, 2010

A fresh and original guidebook that entertains as well as informs. The conversational style makes you feel that you're sitting down with Godwin and Gayle as a welcome guest in their home while they pass on all the travel tips and information you could possibly need. Their passion for Ghana and their enthusiasm for opening its vibrant and colourful culture to other travellers is infectious and they share inside knowledge which only someone who lives in a country can provide. Best of all the personal touch extends to free updates and an invitation to contact them with any questions or suggestions you might have. I'm sure I'm going to get a lot more out of my trip to Ghana as a result of reading it.
Catherine, Spain. Sat, May 29, 2010

I was thrilled to hear this guide was available and it has lived up to my expectations. It is current and relevant to my needs and interests. It covers everythign your average guide does, as well as including useful information such as the currency conversions and personal tips from the authors, recommending where to eat, visit, etc.Although the authors worked together, their ideas are listed separately and this helps me to see an idea from the Ghanaian point of view as well as from a visitor's.
It is the best guide book I have ever read and I will refer to it each and everytime I return to Ghana. Thank you Godwin and Gayle! 
Sarah from England Fri, May 28, 2010

Hi Godwin and Gayle,
We had a very good time with your guide. It helped
a lot with timely information while I was in Ghana
with Ghanian friends in Feb. and Mar. 2010. They
also found it useful.
Thanks again,
Don Majors USA Fri, May 28, 201 

November 15, 2014

We have just released the Fair Market report on prices paid in the straw Bolgatanga basket industry in #Ghana. Click the secure link to the Fair Market Report on Bolga Baskets and it will open up in PDF directly.

We look forward to working together to bring about change in this industry so that the thousands of people involved in making baskets will earn at least the minimum wage in #Ghana from weaving #baskets and other products sold through the central market.

Our research found that NONE of the 120 weavers we interviewed ever received anywhere near a price that met the minimum wage in Ghana when they sold a large market basket in the central market to traders.

The images in this post show scenes from a typical market day in Bolgatanga central market. Here, a woman is attempting to sell 5 baskets. A trader is amassing baskets purchased off the street and around the market. 

The problem

Over several years living in Bolgatanga, basket weavers often commented to us, the authors of this report, that a weaver could not profit from making baskets. We wondered why this was so. What was impeding their profit-making ability?

In our own work in villages we observed that many weavers were illiterate and not in a position to negotiate prices or selling conditions with traders. We wondered what weavers themselves, across the region, would tell us if we gave them a chance to express themselves about these issues.
We wondered what buyers would do if they knew the conditions around the central market in Bolgatanga.

Would buyers be motivated to find a way to ensure the weaver received a fair price?
We wondered if having a clear picture might bring about change for everyone in the supply chain.

Outcome (see p. 89, Conclusion).

After completing this research it is difficult to conclude that selling straw baskets in the central Bolgatanga straw basket market serves straw basket weavers’ interests in any form whatsoever.
If any interests are served, they are those of the middlemen traders, exporters and others in the supply chain who profit.

One thing that is clear from this research is that it is not the straw basket weavers who profit from their work.

Far from helping weavers profit, the prices paid for straw baskets sold in the central Bolgatanga basket market do not cover the cost of a weaver’s time and, thus, do not meet the minimum wage in Ghana.

The middlemen traders, the exporters, the shipping companies, and international buyers profit on the back of the humble basket weaver’s time and skill.

However everyone, including the weavers themselves, could benefit if the straw basket weavers were remunerated for their costs and time.

Whilst this research benchmarked one basket—the round market basket – those who work with baskets and observe prices paid for other styles of baskets in the central market will know that no baskets are fairly remunerated.

Thanks and Gratitude

G-lish Foundation is grateful to the Australian High Commission in Ghana and the Australian Government’s Direct Aid Program for the grant that enabled this work to be undertaken between 2012 and 2013 in the Upper East Region of Ghana. We thank everyone at the Australian High Commission for their faith and support which enabled us to carry out unprecedented work which has the potential to transform many lives in Ghana’s second poorest region.

This work is about a simple basket. The injustice we observed that became this project and now this report is about the people who make it, the end consumer, the people who trade them, and all the people in between.

Ultimately, it’s about choices: how you choose to spend your money. We hope that this work can be broadened to other crafts and communities so that buyers may take action wherever they make a choice about prices paid to artisans.

We would like to thank the 120 weavers from six weaving villages we visited: Dulugu, Tongo-Beu, Gambigigo, Sirigu, Sumburungu and Nyariga. They shared their experiences in great detail. We have over 2400 minutes of recorded interviews in Frafra (translated into English) with the 120 weavers across these six communities. The interviews form part of this report.

We would also like to thank the community leaders of these six communities who allowed us to undertake this work in their communities.

We would like to thank the international buyers who participated in the online survey and provided valuable written information about their experiences buying baskets via the survey and in emails. We would like to thank the few basket producing businesses in Bolgatanga who opened up about their processes, prices and experiences working with weavers and international buyers, and agreed to show us all documentation and systems information.


We would like to thank our colleagues in G-lish Foundation, past and present, whose courage and hard work were crucial in making this happen.  We intend to continue to undertake advocacy for the weavers of Bolgatanga to ensure they receive fair remuneration for their work. Thank you for taking the time to read this. Contact details are at the end of this report if you wish to stay involved in helping bring about economically empowering change for basket weavers in Ghana.

Hashtag: #BasketGood to comment on this in social media.
Twitter: @gaylepescud @godwinyidana1 @G_lishGhana.
Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/GlishFoundationGhana

Message us here with any questions or comment below. In the next two days we will be inviting buyers to a private, locked, online forum in which we'll discuss the issues here in more detail and share experiences in order to better understand and find solutions to the issues.


May 29, 2013

Peace One Day 2008

What we did for Peace One Day 2008. I was inspired by Peace One Day UK to hold an event between the two fighting sides of a decades long conflict in Bawku, Ghana. Talking about this out loud led me to Godwin Yidana. We met. We discussed my idea. We visited Bawku together (I met his family) in the months leading up to the date.

Ultimately, we held an event in Bawku on September 20, 2008, to mark the United Nation’s International Day of Peace and Ceasefire. Although the official date is the 21st, we chose the 20th as it was a Saturday--this would allow both Muslims and Christians alike to take part. This year the theme was: One Day, One Goal. What could be better?


Peace One Day founder, Jeremy Gilley, a self-confessed failed actor but successful documentary film-maker, made the film Peace One Day about his struggle to have the UN recognize one day of peace and ceasefire. It was that film which spurred me to do something to mark the day in Ghana this year.

The question of why Ghana is peaceful has been plaguing me for the three years since I first came here. Because of the negative portrayal of African countries in the international media, I had the impression that poverty and peace were mutually exclusive, especially in Africa. That’s not so here, except for Bawku and a few other pockets of conflict.

After watching the film in May and deciding that I could do something to celebrate peace in the most peaceful country in Africa, I couldn’t help but wonder about Bawku in the Upper East Region; it made the news again in April for clashes between two warring ethnic groups, the Mamprusis and Kusasis. The conflict has flared intermittently throughout the past fifty years since independence. I felt as if celebrating peace in Ghana was not right if we didn’t acknowledge Bawku. And then I wondered, during a weekend bout of Malaria (during which the best ideas are conceived), whether we could hold an event in Bawku itself.

I asked a friend if he knew anyone from Bawku. He introduced me to the director of programs for YPWC who happened to have grown up in Bawku. I explained my idea and told him he could call me mad if he so wished - afterall, why celebrate peace in the middle of a conflict zone? He agreed that we should do it.

We devised an action plan that included meeting politicians at Parliament House in Accra, students from the warring ethnic groups studying at Cape Coast University to seek their opinion about the planned activities, and many more individuals besides.
Everyone, without exception, that we spoke to was supportive.

Our aim was to hold a game of football in keeping with Peace One Day’s theme for this year: One Day, One Goal. We envisaged the two sides comprising all ethnic groups playing together. The ball would be inscribed ‘conflict’ and the goals would be labeled ‘peace’.

Against all odds and efforts to shut us down, right up until the morning of the day itself, we made it happen.

This is how it went.

20th of September. Despite the ominous storm clouds rolling overhead, students, local residents and keen spectators started arriving at Winamzua Park at 7.00 am in central Bawku in anticipation of an event that many said could not happen: a game of football between two sides comprising all the tribes of the Bawku Municipality. A few glitches aside – have you ever tried to get a PA system the night before an event an hour before curfew kicks in at 10 pm in a military patrolled town because the guy who promised to deliver pulled out due to political pressure? – by the time kick-off came at 10.00 am, the field was teeming with children, students and adults.


‘We are here to mark the United Nation’s International Day of Peace and Ceasefire,’ announced Mr Godwin Yidana, Programs Director of Young People We Care. Directing his words towards the two teams, he cautioned, ‘The game is an opportunity for you to come together as brothers. We’re playing fifteen minutes a side. The football represents “conflict” and the goals are “peace”. You are not in the pitch to compete against each other. It doesn’t matter who scores a goal or who wins; in this game everyone is a winner.’

Indeed, the ethnic diversity of Bawku was represented in the two teams of this symbolic match. The majority of the Daduri Catholic Park team, sparkling in their green and red jerseys, were Kusasis, supported by Mamprusis, Bisas, Moshis and Hausas. The majority of the Winamzua Park team were Mamprusis with Kusasis and other ethnic groups making up the balance, sporting the blue and red jerseys of the Barcelona Unicef Football Team.

The referee tossed for the goal and the teams took their respective positions on the field for the kick-off. Contrary to most expectations, the game proceeded for fifteen minutes with both teams putting in a valiant effort, and spectators crowding both goals and the sidelines, cheering on whichever team looked like scoring a goal. The first half ended as a draw, no goals scored.


Both teams scored one goal a piece in the second half, children streaming onto the field in celebration. The game proceeded without a hint of violence or even a cross word.

Players on both sides pleaded with the referee to play thirty minutes in the second half; no one wanted the dream, the momentary freedom provided by the game, to end.

The referee finally blew his whistle on a one-all draw and gathered the players together around the goal posts for the penalty shoot-out. Ten-deep, the crowd jostled for position as the two teams lined up, children standing on bicycle seats to get a better view.



The Daduri Park team took their first kick at a goal, the ball flying between the posts. Four ‘peace’ goals later, they were in the running to win. It was hard to tell who the spectators were following since they cheered all four goals and the save. The Winamzua team took up their position for the second round of penalty shoot-outs. One after the other, their players scored. Five goals later, the Winamzua team were declared the winners and both sides came together with handshakes and friendly pats on the back.
We called both teams and the audience together to award prizes and certificates to the winners of the game and an essay competition which we celebrated peace in Ghana, the idea being to include the children of Bawku in finding an inclusive and sustainable solution to peace. The themes were: 1. Why is Ghana Peaceful and 2. How can we, as Ghanaians, achieve sustainable peace in Bawku? We awarded prizes to the winning students of Bawku Senior High School, Mother Teresa Educational Centre, and Bawku Senior High Technical School while their parents and other children looked on.

We also awarded prizes of new footballs to the two football teams for their participation in the day, thanking them for their efforts and spirit of goodwill and explaining that games of football were being held in 182 countries around the world to mark the day and the theme of “One day, One goal,” using football to unite communities in conflict.

Finally, we handed over a cloth to the Bawku Literary Society made of pieces of fabric that the women of southern Ghana had contributed to symbolize peace for the people of Bawku. The cloth included an especially batiked piece -- “Live in Peace” -- and a patchwork piece representing the diversity of Bawku’s ethnic groups.


Afterwards Godwin Yidana, a founding member of the Bawku Literary Society and current Program Director of Young People We Care, explained, “This was a personal initiative of my partner who thought, ‘wouldn’t it be great if we could hold a day of peaceful activities in Bawku to mark the UN’s day of Peace and Ceasefire?’ As someone who grew up here and experienced the conflict, and lost friends in the conflict, I knew it was the right thing to do, and we could do it, and that’s how this came about.”

“We wanted to show that the people of Bawku are good, especially that the youth of Bawku are united and see each other as brothers and sisters and as young people ready to solve their own problems.”

We received word from some of the BLS members that opinion leaders had quietly come to observe the proceedings and that they spoke favorably on the smooth flow of the program, although they declined, understandably, to comment officially given that relations between communities are still on a path to normalizing.

I managed to speak with Reverand Isaiah Joel, a Board Member of the Bawku Literary Society, about how he felt about the match during play. “I want to commend the organizers for bringing the two sides together to climax the peace we’re yearning for. Without peace there is nothing we can achieve. Only a few of our JSS students passed their exams as a result of the conflict. At Kpalwega school only eleven of forty students passed. That shows that conflict has a negative impact and, for us, this occasion will send signals to feuding factions that there is heat to bring peace and that without peace there can be no success.”

He continued to explain that Bawku can achieve sustainable peace, “if all the feuding factions, if all the ethnic groups in Bawku work together to ensure it, especially in election times and not allow politicians to divide us again. Elections will come and go but we, the people of Bawku, will always be here. Another thing is to bring employment to the people as people don’t have anything to sustain their lives. The lack of livelihood makes conflict spring every now and again, but conflict does not profit.”

I also interviewed Mr Muhammed Umarfarouk of the winning Winamzua side after the game about how it felt to have been part of this event. He paused for thought and then carefully explained: “The game was very interesting; it brought competing factions together for the first time and we played as the rules of the gamed demands. I hope that next time we can come together and play as the same people in one town. We never thought this could happen this way. I would describe this as a dream come true. I hope that we can all live together as one people so that development will come to our municipality.”

This seems to be a sentiment shared by many in Bawku.

“We have shown that, when given a chance and a little push, young people can do things that politicians can not do,” said Abubarkar Yussif Maako of the Bawku Literary Society. “That game was like a dream come true. It was everything we planned and we got all factions to play. Our plan was that we organize two teams comprising all tribes so that the winners will equally share that gift (of playing together) among themselves. And they played successfully. We are grateful to Allah that our dream became reality and to young people for the peace process. This will symbolize peace from today and beyond. We pray that this hullabaloo in Bawku will come to an end.”
I was most excited when a young girl grinned, gave us the ‘thumbs up’ and shouted ‘Organizer!’ as we flew past on a motorbike a few hours later; it's the first time I've been called anything other than obruni, solomia or yevu since I've lived in Ghana. Then, I knew we’d made a good impact. I know it won’t change the world overnight, but the youth, the leaders of tomorrow, will remember that they made this happen, and they can do it again in future.

The success of the day compels the rest of Ghana to sit up and take notice. And in this election year, that the community and politicians should keep in mind that “peace, not politics” is the order of the day.

No one believed that Mamprusis and Kusasis would come together and play without any violence. No one believed that the spectators would refrain from some kind of scuffle, if not something more serious. Everyone asked whether security would be present. We checked, double-checked, consulted, visited security forces, served letters and received countless assurances that they would, indeed, be present to ensure a smooth program.

We showed that the human spirit can soar when you believe it can.




What are you doing for Peace One Day in 2010?

January 4, 2012

Help Fundraise for Quadriplegic in Ghana

Dear friends, visitors, readers,

We know many of you support worthy causes, especially if you are connected with Ghana already. However, we're hoping you may be able to help out supporting our brother (literally).

Our younger brother, Joshua, became quadriplegic—paralysed from the neck down—after sustaining severe spinal cord injuries when he fell from a tree he was climbing in September, something that could have happened to any one of us. Your donation will help cover Jo’s ongoing medical costs and purchase devices to help prevent pressure sores and improve mobility.

Thank you in advance. If you would like to share this with other supporters, we would appreciate it.

A 1 minute film showing the story
Link to our simple fundraising site:


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